Farther to the west the Embankment is separated by narrow public gardens from CHEYNE WALK, an attractive row of red-brick Georgian houses, many of which retain their original wrought-iron railings and gates. No. 4 was occupied by George Eliot (then Mrs. Cross; 1819-80) during the last three weeks of her life; previous tenants were the artists William Dyce (died 1864) and Daniel Maclise, the latter of whom died here in 1870. No. 10 was the residence of Count D'Orsay (rebuilt). No. 16, the Queen's House, erroneously connected with the name of Catherine of Braganza (died 1705), Charles II.'s queen, was built long after her death; the initials on the beautiful iron gate are those of Richard Chapman, the builder. Dante Gabriel Rossetti lived here in 1862-82 and kept his menagerie in the garden behind. For a brief period Swinburne and W. M. Rossetti were his sub-tenants. The Reverand H. R. Haweis (died 1911) was a later tenant. In the public garden in front of the house is the Rossetti Memorial Fountain, by Ford Madox Brown and John Seddon. At No. 18 (rebuilt) was Don Saltero's Coffee House, established in 1695 by Salter, a servant of Sir Hans Sloane; it contained a gimcrack collection of curios and was at one time a kind of literary resort. A little farther on the river is spanned by Albert Bridge, a suspension bridge 710 feet long, opened in 1873.
The later Manor House of Henry VIII. stood near the corner of Cheyne Walk and Oakley St., and traces of it still remain in the basements of the houses here. On the east side of Oakley St., near the Manor House, was Winchester House, a palace of the Bishop's of Winchester from the middle of the 17th century until 1828, when it was pulled down. Opposite stood Shrewsbury House (demolished in 1813). In the 16th century it belonged to three successive Earls of Shrewsbury, the last of whom was husband of Bess of Hardwick and custodian of Mary, Queen of Scots, who may have spent part of her captivity here.
In the gardens to the west of the bridge is a statue of Carlyle, by Boehm (1882), and in Cheyne Row, the quiet and unpretentious little street built in 1708 and running thence north from the river, is the house (No. 24; formerly No. 5) in which Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881) and his wife (1801-66) lived from 1834 to the end of their lives. Carlyle's House (admission on week-days, 10 to dusk, 1/; on Sat. 6d.; catalogue 1/), opened in 1895 as a Carlyle museum, is preserved in the dignified simplicity impressed upon it by its famous tenants. The little rooms contain furniture used by the Carlyles; on the walls hang portraits of them and sketches and photographs of scenes and places connected with them; and in glass cases are exhibited books and manuscripts belonging to Carlyle and many interesting personal relics. In the Back Dining Room may be seen a horse-shoe invented by Carlyle, one of his long clay pipes, his flask, etc., and in the China Closet is a case with memorials of Mrs. Carlyle. In the Drawing Room, on the first floor, is a case with autograph letters (including three 'notekins' from Carlyle to his wife), three cards with verses in Goethe's handwriting, locks of Carlyle's hair, impression of a seal designed by Carlyle, etc. In a frame by the window are Disraeli's letter offering Carlyle a baronetcy and Carlyle's reply. The large bust of Carlyle is by D. W. Stevenson. Mrs. Carlyle's Bedroom contains her 'red' bed. On the second floor are the Spare Bedroom (not shown), in which Emerson slept, and Carlyle's Bedroom and dressing-room, with his walking-stick and a pane of glass from his Edinburgh lodgings. On the top floor is the famous Attic Study with its double walls, added by Carlyle in 1853 at a cost of �169 in a vain attempt to ensure quiet. Here 'Frederick the Great' was written, and many of the pictures on the walls and of the documents in the glass-cases are connected with that book. Here are also the Prussian Order of Merit and another German order conferred upon Carlyle. The Kitchen in the basement, where Carlyle and Tennyson smoked together, and the Garden, where 'Nero,' Mrs. Carlyle's dog, is buried, are shown also.
A little farther up Cheyne Row a Roman Catholic church now occupies the site of Orange House, where William De Morgan (died 1917) at one time had his pottery. Round the corner from the church is No. 10 Upper Cheyne Row (formerly No. 4), where Leigh Hunt lived from 1833 to 1840.
Glebe Place, a street with many studios, prolonging Cheyne Row to King's Road, is continued to the north by Manresa Road, in which is the CHELSEA PUBLIC LIBRARY (76,000 volumes). This possesses an important collection of prints and drawings of Old Chelsea, portraits of well-known residents, and objects connected with its history (open 5-9 p.m., at other times on request; library closed 2-5 on Wednesday). In the Reference Room are a statue of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Birnie Philip, a bust of Henry James (died 1916), by F. Derwent Wood, and a portrait of Lady Dilke (Mrs. Mark Pattison), by Herkomer. In Sydney St., a little to the east, is the present parish church, St. Luke's, built in 1820-24 by James Savage, as a counterblast to the classical St. Pancras. Here Charles Dickens was married to Catherine Hogarth in 1836, and Sir Charles Dilke to Mrs. Mark Pattison in 1885.
Parallel with Cheyne Row on the west is Lawrence Street, on the right side of which, opposite Justice Walk, is an 18th century house in which Henry Fielding once lived.
The original manor-house of Chelsea is supposed to have stood about here. After Henry VIII. had built a new manor-house Lawrence House is believed to have been erected on the site of the old one. In 1749-65 a house on the same site was occupied by Dr. Tobias Smollett, who wrote 'Humphrey Clinker' here. The celebrated Chelsea China Factory (circa 1748-84) stood at the corner of Lawrence St. and Justice Walk.
In Cheyne Walk, between Cheyne Row and Lawrence St., are Carlyle Mansions, a block of flats at No. 21 in which Henry James lived from 1912 till his death in 1916. We now come to the graveyard of the old church of Chelsea, in which are buried H. S. Woodfall (died 1805), printer of the 'Letters of Junius'; Jean Cavalier (died 1740), the leader of the Camisards in the Cevennes in 1702-4 and afterwards governor of jersey; Thomas Shadwell (1640-92), the playwright and poet laureate; and Sir Hans Sloane. On the south wall of the church is a memorial tablet to Lord Courtney of Penwith (died 1918), by A. G. Walker.
